Flower Symbolism

Many flowers have important symbolic meanings in Western culture. The practice of assigning meanings to flowers is known as floriography. Some of the more common examples include:

• Red roses are given as a symbol of love, beauty, and passion.
• Poppies are a symbol of consolation in time of death. In the UK, New Zealand, Australia and Canada, red poppies are worn to commemorate soldiers who have died in times of war.
• Irises/Lily are used in burials as a symbol referring to "resurrection/life". It is also associated with stars (sun) and its petals blooming/shining.
• Daisies are a symbol of innocence.

Flowers within art are also representative of the female genitalia, as seen in the works of artists such as Georgia O'Keefe, Imogen Cunningham, Veronica Ruiz de Velasco, and Judy Chicago, and in fact in Asian and western classical art. Many cultures around the world have a marked tendency to associate flowers with femininity.

The great variety of delicate and beautiful flowers has inspired the works of numerous poets, especially from the 18th-19th century Romantic era. Famous examples include William Wordsworth's I Wandered Lonely as a Cloud and William Blake's Ah! Sun-Flower.

Because of their varied and colorful appearance, flowers have long been a favorite subject of visual artists as well. Some of the most celebrated paintings from well-known painters are of flowers, such as Van Gogh's sunflowers series or Monet's water lilies. Flowers are also dried, freeze dried and pressed in order to create permanent, three-dimensional pieces of flower art.

The Roman goddess of flowers, gardens, and the season of Spring is Flora. The Greek goddess of spring, flowers and nature is Chloris.

In Hindu mythology, flowers have a significant status. Vishnu, one of the three major gods in the Hindu system, is often depicted standing straight on a lotus flower. Apart from the association with Vishnu, the Hindu tradition also considers the lotus to have spiritual significance. For example, it figures in the Hindu stories of creation.

Check out the cut flower language of flowers.

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Starting Seeds Indoors

The proper time for sowing seeds for transplants depends upon when plants may safely be moved outdoors in your area. This period may range from 4 to 12 weeks prior to transplanting depending upon the speed of germination, the rate of growth, and the cultural conditions provided. A common mistake is to sow seed too early and then attempt to hold the seedlings back under poor light or improper temperature ranges. This usually results in tall, weak, and spindly plants which do not perform well in the garden.

After selecting a container, fill it to within 3/4 of an inch from the top with moistened sterile medium. For very small seeds, at least the top 1/4 inch should be of a fine, screened mix or a layer of vermiculite. Firm the medium at the corners and edges with your fingers or a block of wood to provide a uniform, flat surface. For medium-to-large seeds, make furrows about 1 to 2 inches apart and 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch deep across the surface of the container using a narrow board or pot label. By sowing in rows, good light and air movement results and, if damping off fungus appears, there is less chance of it spreading. Sow the seeds thinly and uniformly in the rows by gently tapping the packet of seed as it is moved along the row. Lightly cover the seed with dry vermiculite or sifted medium if they require darkness for germination. A suitable planting depth is usually about twice the diameter of the seed.

Do not plant seeds too deeply. Extremely fine seed such as petunia, begonia and snapdragon are not covered but lightly pressed into the medium or watered in with a fine mist spray. If these seeds are broadcast, strive for a uniform stand by sowing half the seeds in one direction, then sowing the remaining seed at a right angle to the first.

Large seeds are frequently sown into a small container or cell pack which eliminates the need for early transplanting. Sow 2 or 3 seeds per unit and thin to allow the strongest seedling to grow.

After the seed has been sown, moisten the planting mix thoroughly. Use a fine mist or place the containers in a pan or tray which has about 1 inch of warm water in the bottom. Avoid splashing or excessive flooding which might displace small seeds. When the planting mix is saturated, set the container aside to drain. The soil should be moist but not wet.

To maintain moisture, slip the whole flat or pot into a clear plastic bag after the initial watering. The plastic should be at least 1-1 1/2 inches from the soil. Keep the container out of direct sunlight otherwise the temperature may rise to a point harmful to the seeds. Many home gardeners cover their flats with panes of glass instead of using a plastic sleeve. Be sure to remove the plastic bag or glass cover as soon as the first seedlings appear. Surface watering can then be practiced if care and good judgement are used.

Seedlings must receive bright light after germination. Place them in a window facing south, if possible. If a large, bright window is not available, place the seedlings under a fluorescent light. Use two 40-watt fluorescent tubes one cool white and one warm white or special plant growth lamps. Position the plants 6 inches from the tubes and keep the lights on about 16 hours each day. As the seedlings grow, the lights should be raised. Temperatures of 55 to 60 degree F at night and 65 to 70 degree F during the day will prevent soft, leggy growth and minimize disease troubles.

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Seed Germination

Germination is the growth of an embryonic plant contained within a seed, it results in the formation of the seedling. The seed of a higher plant is a small package produced in a fruit or cone after the union of male and female sex cells. Most seeds go through a period of quiescences where there is no active growth, during this time the seed can be safely transported to a new location and/or survive adverse climate conditions until it is favorable for growth. The seed contains an embryo and in most plants stored food reserves wrapped in a seed coat. Under favorable conditions, the seed begins to germinate, and the embryonic tissues resume growth, developing towards a seedling.

Requirements for seed germination

The germination of seeds is dependent on both internal and external conditions. The most important external factors include: temperature, water, oxygen and sometimes light or darkness.[1] Often different varieties of seeds require distinctive variables for successful germination; some seeds germinate while the soil is cold, while most germinate while the soil is warm. This depends on the individual seed variety and is closely linked to the ecological conditions of the plants' natural habitat.

• Water - is required for germination. Mature seeds are often extremely dry and need to take in significant amounts of water, relative to the seeds dry weight, before cellular metabolism and growth can resume. Most seeds respond best when there is enough water to moisten the seeds but not soak them. The uptake of water by seeds is called imbibition which leads to the swelling and the breaking of the seed coat. When seeds are formed, most plants store food, such as starch, proteins, or oils, to provide nourishment to the growing embryo inside the seed. When the seed imbibes water, hydrolytic enzymes are activated that break down these stored food resources in to metabolically useful chemicals, allowing the cells of the embryo to divide and grow, so the seedling can emerge from the seed. Once the seedling starts growing and the food reserves are exhausted, it requires a continuous supply of water, nutrients and light for photosynthesis, which now provides the energy needed for continued growth.
• Oxygen - is required by the germinating seed for metabolism: If the soil is waterlogged or the seed is buried within the soil, it might be cut off from the necessary oxygen it needs. Oxygen is used in aerobic respiration, the main source of the seedling's energy until it has leaves, which can photosynthesize its energy requirements.[1] Some seeds have impermeable seed coats that prevent oxygen from entering the seeds, causing seed dormancy. Impermeable seed coats to oxygen or water, are types of physical dormancy which is broken when the seed coat is worn away enough to allow gas exchange or water uptake between the seed and its surrounds.
• Temperature - affects cellular metabolic and growth rates. Different seeds germinate over a wide range of temperatures, with many preferring temperatures slightly higher than room-temperature while others germinate just above freezing and others responding to alternation in temperature between warm to cool. Often, seeds have a set of temperature ranges where they will germinate and will not do so above or below this range. In addition, some seeds may require exposure to cold temperature (vernalization) to break dormancy before they can germinate. As long as the seed is in its dormant state, it will not germinate even if conditions are favorable. Seeds that are dependent on temperature to end dormancy, have a type of physiological dormancy. For example, seeds requiring the cold of winter are inhibited from germinating until they experience cooler temperatures. For most seeds that require cold for germination 4C is cool enough to end dormancy, but some groups especially with in the family Ranunculaceae and others, need less than -5C. Some seeds will only germinate when temperatures reach hundreds of degrees, as during a forest fire. Without fire, they are unable to crack their seed coats, this is a type of physical dormancy.
• Light or darkness - can be a type of environmental trigger for germination in seeds and is a type of physiological dormancy. Most seeds are not affected by light or darkness, but many seeds, including species found in forest settings will not germinate until an opening in the canopy allows them to receive sufficient light for the growing seedling.

Stratification mimics natural processes that weaken the seed coat before germination. In nature, some seeds require particular conditions to germinate, such as the heat of a fire (e.g., many Australian native plants), or soaking in a body of water for a long period of time. Others have to be passed through an animal's digestive tract to weaken the seed coat and enable germination.

Dormacy

Many live seeds have dormancy, meaning they will not germinate even if they have water and it is warm enough for the seedling to grow. Dormancy factors include conditions affecting many different parts of the seed, from the embryo to the seed coat. Dormancy is broken or ended by a number of different conditions and cues both internal and external to the seed. Environmental factors like light, temperature, fire, ingestion by animals and others are conditions that can end seed dormancy. Internally seeds can be dormant because of plant hormones such as absciscic acid, which affects seed dormancy and prevents germination, while the production and application of the hormone gibberellin can break dormancy and induces seed germination. This effect is used in brewing where barley is treated with gibberellin to ensure uniform seed germination to produce barley malt.

Seedling Establishment

In some definitions, the appearance of the radicle marks the end of germination and the beginning of "establishment", a period that ends when the seedling has exhausted the food reserves stored in the seed. Germination and establishment as an independent organism are critical phases in the life of a plant when they are the most vulnerable to injury, disease, and water stress. The germination index can be used as an indicator of phytotoxicity in soils. The mortality between dispersal of seeds and completion of establishment can be so high, that many species survive only by producing huge numbers of seeds.

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Types of Geraniums

For over 300 years, gardeners have enjoyed the continuously renewing color of geraniums in the garden. Bright colors, perky flower heads, and contrasting foliage have made them increasingly popular. Geraniums come in every flower color, except blue and yellow. Their diversity of flower form and color, growth habits, and garden requirements make them highly adaptable for home gardeners.

Zonal Geraniums

So-called because many of them have zones or patterns in the center of the leaves, these plants of the Pelargonium genus are the ones most people recognize as geraniums. Varieties with self-branching habit and compact growth make tidy, well-shaped plants with a show of color all summer long. Some of the varieties have unusually dark green foliage which makes a particularly striking contrast to the colorful flower heads held above the foliage. Semi-double flower types are highly desirable because they resist weather damage well and are not as subject to shattering as are singles.

Many of the new zonal geranium varieties (Pelargonium x hortorum) have been bred for free flowering, earliness, compactness and self-branching characteristics making them particularly good plants for every geranium use, from planting beds to container plants for porch and patio.

Ivy Leaf Geraniums

Ivy-leafed geraniums have been developed from Pelargonium peltatum. In Europe, over 45% of all geraniums produced are ivy geraniums. Ivy geraniums bear semi-double flowers in colors from white through all the pastels of pink to red. Plants are particularly valuable for use in container plantings, hanging baskets and window boxes where their flowering character provides soft effects. Traditionally, they've been used alone, but in recent years the trend has been to combine them with other flowers such as bachelor buttons and ageratum in mixed plantings. The key to these plantings is fullness--one or more kinds of flowers for a vertical line, lower growing plants for mass, and trailing varieties such as ivy geraniums to drape over container edges for softness and color.

Ivy geraniums prefer full sun and an eastern exposure where temperatures generally remain below 80 degrees F, but can grow well and bloom in dappled shade where temperatures go higher. For container plantings, top dress with a slow-release fertilizer to provide nutrient needs. Water is critical in container plantings, even more so in hanging baskets where all parts of the container are exposed to air movement.

Cascades

Breeding work has brought about a new class of geraniums called cascades (Pelargonium sp.). Cascade varieties are the ultimate container plants so heavily covered with blooms that the foliage becomes hidden by the blossoms. Cascades are very popular in Europe where they are widely used for balcony plantings, window boxes and other container plantings. They also make outstanding ground cover plantings where you want bloom all summer long. Use them on slopes or in ground beds.

Plant in full sun for the most bloom, but cascade geraniums are also delighful in partial shade or dappled shade. The plants are self-branching; each one becomes a mound of color, flowing over the edges of containers to soften the lines and enhance the plantings. The plants are also self-cleaning, which means that spent flower heads drop away when finished blooming. Varieties range in height from tall (24 inches) to very compact kinds which may not exceed 12 inches in length. Fertilize and water regularly to produce a great crop.

Clean Air Plants

Symptoms of Sick Building Syndrome

• Allergies
• Asthma
• Eye, nose and throat irritations
• Fatigue
• Headache
• Nervous-system disorders
• Respiratory congestion
• Sinus congestion

These are the symptoms associated with Sick Building Syndrome, a condition produced by poor indoor air quality. Since the 1980's problems with indoor air pollution have become more prevalent because, in order to conserve energy resources, many homes and office buildings are now efficiently sealed from the air outside, trapping the gases that synthetic materials emit or "off-gas" inside. In fact, indoor air pollution is now considered by many experts to be one of the major threats to health. It may be an even greater threat than outdoor pollution - primarily because of the greater length of exposure.

Sources of Indoor Air Pollution

The most common harmful airborne chemicals found in the average home or office are formaldehyde, benzene, trichloroethylene and carbon monoxide. Even in low concentrations these chemicals can cause a variety of health problems.

Formaldehyde is found in virtually all indoor environments:

• Office or household furniture made of particle board or pressed wood products
• Consumer paper products: grocery bags, paper towels, facial tissues
• Adhesive binders in floor covering, carpet backing
• Many common household cleaning agents
• Natural gas from gas stoves and kerosene
• Tobacco smoke
• Permanent-press clothes, water repellent, fire retardants

Symptoms include eye, nose and throat irritation, headaches, allergic dermatitis, controversial links to asthma, cancer, chronic respiratory diseases and neuropsychological problems.

Benzene is used in:

• Commonly used solvents
• The manufacture of detergents
• Some pharmaceuticals
• Oils
• Paints
• Plastics
• Rubber
• Dyes
• Synthetic fibers
• Inks

Symptoms include skin and eye irritation, headaches, loss of appetite, drowsiness, psychological disturbances and some blood system diseases including anemia and bone marrow disease.

Trichloroethylene is used by the metal degreasing and dry cleaning industry and is also found in:

• Printing inks
• Paints
• Varnishes
• Adhesives
• Lacquers

It is considered to be a potent liver carcinogen.

Carbon monoxide is found in:

• Cigarette smoke
• Fuel-fired furnaces
• Gas water heaters
• Fireplaces and woodstoves
• Gas stoves
• Gas dryers

Symptoms - Exposure to low levels can cause drowsiness and "flu-like" symptoms of dizziness, nausea and headaches.

Bioeffluents are released during human respiration and also increase Indoor Air Quality problems. The four most prevalent bioeffluents found in a crowded classroom are: ethyl alcohol, acetone, methyl alcohol and ethyl acetate.

Other Air Quality Factors: airborne microbes such as mould spores and low relative humidity. (Healthy humidity levels range between 35 and 65%.)

Experiments with Plants

The National Aeronautics and Space Administration was instrumental in determining that house plants improve the quality of air that we breathe while they were researching ways to clean the air in space stations. Scientists discovered that there were 300 volatile organic chemicals in the air occupied by the crew. Dr. B.C. Wolverton, a research scientist, headed up a team that experimented with plants to determine which were best at purifying the air. In 1996 he published the results on 50 plants in his book "Eco Friendly House Plants". The following information is largely taken from his findings.

How Plants Clean The Air

Because most houseplants evolved in the undercanopy of tropical or subtropical forests, they have unusually high rates of photosynthesis to allow them to thrive in dim light. This trait works to our advantage when dealing with indoor environments.

The studies confirmed that houseplant leaves, roots, soil and microorganisms work together in a symbiotic relationship to removal chemical pollutants:

• Air pollutants are absorbed through microscopic openings in the leaves called stomata. Through translocation, the movement of substances through the plant to the root zone, toxins are removed from the air to the soil and broken down by microbes. Some chemicals, however, are destroyed by the plant's own biological processes without involving the action of soil microbes.
• Water vapour is emitted into the air from plant leaves through a process called transpiration. Convection air currents set up by leaf transpiration transport toxins to the root zone. Effective toxin transportation can be increased if the lower leaves of houseplants are removed so that as much soil as possible is in contact with the air.
• Soil microbes biodegrade the toxins into a source of food for the microbes and the plant. A varied population of microorganisms live in the soil. They are responsible for, among other things, making nutrients available to plants and detoxifying the soil. They are highly adaptive, having the ability to mutate to cope with environmental changes. It is important to note that, since research has shown that microorganisms become more adept at detoxification the longer they are exposed to toxins, the longer we are able to keep our houseplants, the more successful they will be as Clean Air Plants.
• While most plants photosynthesize in daylight, some plants, including most succulents, orchids and bromeliads, act in the opposite manner, opening their stomata at night. Therefore, with a well-balanced selection of houseplants, it is possible to purify continuously the indoor environment - day and night!

Clean Air Plants

The following 20 plants were given the highest ratings for removal of chemical vapours in Dr. Wolverton's Book "Eco Friendly House Plants". The book gives detailed information on all fifty plants tested.

* - ability for plant to remove chemical out of air. Scale is 1 to 10 with 10 being the best.

Number of Plants

The recommendation generated by NASA studies is to use 15 to 18 good sized houseplants in 6 inch (15 cm) to 8 inch (20 cm) containers to improve the air quality in an average 1,800 square-foot house. The more vigorously they grow, the better job they'll do.

A personal breathing zone is an area of 0.17 to 0.23 cubic metres (6-8 cubic feet) surrounding a person. These are usually areas where an individual remains for several hours working, watching TV or asleep. Plants placed within this zone can add humidity, remove bioeffluents and chemical toxins and suppress airborne microbes. Plant-filled rooms contained 50 to 60% fewer airborne moulds and bacteria than plant-less rooms.

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Slow-Release Fertilizers

Slow-release fertilizers are excellent alternatives to soluble fertilizers. Because nutrients are released at a slower rate throughout the season, plants are able to take up most of the nutrients without waste by leaching. A slow-release fertilizer is more convenient, since less frequent application is required. Fertilizer burn is not a problem with slow-release fertilizers even at high rates of application; however, it is still important to follow application recommendations. Slow-release fertilizers may be more expensive than soluble types, but their benefits outweigh their disadvantages.

Slow-release fertilizers are generally categorized into one of several groups based on the process by which the nutrients are released. Application rates vary with the different types and brands, with recommendations listed on the fertilizer label.

Pelletized:
One type of slow-release fertilizer consists of relatively insoluble nutrients in pelletized form. As the pellet size is increased, the time it takes for the fertilizer to breakdown by microbial action is also increased. An example of this type is MagAmp, a 7-40-0 fertilizer that is available in a coarse grade lasting two years and a medium grade lasting one year. MagAmp is used commercially for container plants, but is appropriate for use on turf, tree seedlings, ornamentals, vegetables, and flower borders.

Chemically altered:
A fertilizer may be chemically altered to render a portion of it water insoluble. For instance, urea is chemically modified to make Ureaform (ureaformaldehyde) -- a fertilizer that is 38 percent nitrogen, 70 percent of which is water-insoluble. This percentage is often listed on fertilizer labels as the Percent W.I.N., or the percent of water-insoluble nitrogen. This form of nitrogen is released gradually by microbial activity in the soil. Because microbial activity is greatly affected by soil temperature, pH, aeration, and texture, these variables can affect the release of nitrogen from Ureaform. For example, there will be less fertilizer breakdown in acid soils with poor aeration -- an environment unfavorable to soil microorganisms. Ureaform is used for turfgrass; landscaping; ornamental, horticulture, and greenhouse crops.

IBDU (isobutylidene diurea) is similar to Ureaform, but contains 32 percent nitrogen, 90 percent of which is insoluble. However, IBDU is less dependent on microbial activity than Ureaform. Nitrogen is released when soil moisture is adequate. Breakdown is increased in acid soils. IBDU is used most widely as a lawn fertilizer.

Coated:
Water-soluble fertilizers may be coated or encapsulated in membranes to slow the release of nutrients. For example, Osmocote, a controlled-release fertilizer is composed of a semipermeable membrane surrounding water-soluble nitrogen and other nutrients. Water passes through the membrane, eventually causing enough internal pressure to disrupt the membrane and release the enclosed nutrients. Because the thickness of the coating varies from one pellet, or prill, to another, nutrients are released at different times from separate prills. Release rate of these fertilizers is dependent on temperature, moisture, and thickness of the coating. Osmocote is recommended for turf, floriculture, nursery stock, and high-value row crops.

Another type of coated fertilizer is sulfur-coated urea (SCU), which is manufactured by coating hot urea with molten sulfur and sealing with a polyethylene oil or a microcrystalline wax. Nitrogen is released when the sealant is broken or by diffusion through pores in the coating. Thus, the rate of release is dependent on the thickness of the coating or the sealant weight. SCU is broken down by microorganisms, and chemical and mechanical action. The nitrogen in SCU is released more readily in warm temperatures and dry soils. SCU appears to be more effective when applied to the soil surface, rather than mixed into the soil. Any method of application that crushes the granules will increase the release rate to some extent.

SCU is best used where multiple fertilizer applications are normally necessary, such as on sandy soils or in areas of high rainfall or irrigation. SCU is used on grass forages, turf, ornamentals, and strawberries.

Though slow-release fertilizers are convenient for the gardener, there are some drawbacks associated with their use. Because the rate of release may be dependent upon soil moisture and temperature, the availability of nutrients may not be constant or predictable.

Gardeners need to be aware of exactly what they are buying when they purchase a slow-release fertilizer. If it is strictly slow-release, there may be a period of little or no release immediately after application followed by a period of heavier release that gradually decreases throughout the season. A blended fertilizer -- one that mixes slow-release with soluble fertilizer and lists a Percent W.I.N. on the label -- will release nutrients upon application and throughout the growing season. Use of blended fertilizers may provide an early start for young plants, giving them an advantage throughout the growing season. Apply blended fertilizers early in the growing season for best results. For summer flowers, this would be in the spring. However, for cool-season turf, fertilize in the fall when growth is beginning.

As gardeners' responsibilities continue to increase in regard to the environment and groundwater, slow-release fertilizers are a welcome alternative to the less-convenient soluble fertilizers.

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Note: Trade names are provided for your information only, and usage in this article is not an endorsement of any item mentioned.

Additives for Cut Flowers

Additives for cut flowers are substances added to water, intended to extend the viability of the flowers. Once flowers are removed from the plant they continue to grow slowly, but have a diminished capability of receiving the nutrients that are vital for their survival. There are different techniques of ensuring that fresh cut flowers remain alive for the longest amount of time.

Sterilization

According to James C. Schmidt, a horticulturist at the University of Illinois, originally putting cut flowers in a sterilized vase is important to extending the life of the flowers. Vases can be cleaned using a household dish detergent or a combination of water and bleach. Using these disinfectants insures that there will not be any bacteria growing within the vase that could potentially cause the plant to wilt and die at a faster rate. Schmidt also claims that cutting the flowers diagonally with a sharp knife under running water insures that they can immediately take up fresh and clean water. Re-cutting the stems periodically will insure that there is a fresh surface from which the stems can take up water. This will allow the flowers to last even longer.

Additives

According to the Brooklyn Botanical Garden, different additives can be used to prolong the lives of fresh cut flowers. Experiments were performed with various substances mixed with water, including aspirin, vitamin pills, vinegar, pennies, and flower food to test their effect on cut flowers' lifespans. Each plant was placed in the same environment and the same type of plant was used in each vase.

This research found that the best additive for flowers was the retailer-provided "flower food" that is usually given with a bouquet. Plants are known to thrive in an environment where there are few bacteria, plenty of food for energy, and water uptake is encouraged. Flower foods contain an acidifier which helps to adjust the water's pH. With a lower pH the water and food conducting system within the flower can work at maximum efficiency. The sugar in the food will be used by the plant as an energy source, which had been lost when the flower was cut away from its root. With these nutrients the plant will be able to fully develop. Finally, there are stem unpluggers that will make sure that the flower can easily take up water and nutrients that can later be used to take care of the needs of the rest of the plant. This combination gives the fresh cut flowers everything that they need to survive longer. When tests were carried out in St. Mary's College C.S.S.p, Rathmines, Dublin, however, results showed that glucose was more effective at prolonging the life of cut flowers than the commercial plant food. The experiment was carried out as part of the Junior Certificate Science Examination set by the Irish State Examinations Commission 2008.

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Drying Flowers In A Microwave

With the use of a microwave, you can now dry your flowers very quickly. Flowers should be gathered at their peak or else they will turn brown. Use any of the drying agents (silica gel, sand, borax) in a container deep enough to cover the bloom. Leave a 1/2 inch stem on the flower, and place it face up on a 1/2 inch layer of drying agent. Carefully sprinkle enough agent to cover the flower, and place it in the microwave along with a small bowl of water. Do not remove the flowers from the agent immediately, but set them aside for several hours. Listed below are some times for drying flowers in a microwave.

By using air drying and other methods also, many flowers can be preserved for year-round enjoyment. Plan now to include some flowers in your garden for drying, and check nearby fields and road sides throughout the summer and fall for more dried plant materials.

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(Originally published as "Drying Flowers in a Microwave," by Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Consumer Horticulture, Virginia Tech, in the Virginia Gardener Newsletter, Volume 3, Issue 5.)

Rose Color Meanings

Red
The red rose symbolizes love and romance. Sending a dozen red roses expresses your love and is a traditional way of romancing a potential mate.

Pink
Grace and elegance are associated with the pink rose. Another emotion a pink rose conveys is admiration.

Yellow
Show your appreciate to a true friend by sending yellow roses. Yellow roses express happiness and joy.

White
The traditional symbol of weddings and purity. Arrangements with white roses are used in times of sorrow to express remembrance.

Orange
Show your passion and desire with orange roses. Express your passion by sending orange roses.

Lavender
Love at first sight is what lavender roses are all about. Lesser known is there meaning of enchantment.

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